Changanassery — Travel Guide
Changanassery, celebrated across Kerala and South India as the historic City of Five Lamps (Anchuvilakku), home to the 1177 AD St. Mary's Metropolitan Cathedral, the 9th century Thrikkodithanam Mahavishnu Divya Desam temple, and the primary land gateway to the emerald backwaters of Kuttanad, is an engaging destination in Kerala.
It's the home of the historic stone lamp post erected by Dewan Velu Thampi Dalawa in 1905, the ancient Vattezhuthu stone inscriptions at Thrikkodithanam, the revered Puzhavathu Kavil Bhagavathi temple of the Thekkumkur rajas, and the sprawling network of palm fringed canals leading to Vembanad Lake.
It works as a primary commercial, educational, rubber trading, and highway transit hub connecting Kottayam and Thiruvalla with Alappuzha, Kumarakom, Pathanamthitta, and Sabarimala along the Main Central Road (MC Road) and AC Road.
It represents a rich cultural crossroads where centuries of Syrian Christian ecclesiastical heritage, ancient Vaishnavite temple traditions, and famous Kuttanadan backwater farming unite across the fertile plains of the Manimala river basin.
Located at an elevation of 11 meters in Kottayam district, it sits 3 km from Thrikkodithanam, 5 km from Kuttanad boat jetty, 8 km north of Thiruvalla, 18 km south of Kottayam, 25 km east of Alappuzha, and 105 km from Cochin Airport.
Morning breezes drifting over the backwater canals and local Central Travancore food messes carry the appetizing aroma of authentic Kuttanadan Tharavu Roast (country duck slow cooked in thick roasted coconut milk, crushed black pepper, and curry leaves) served fresh with soft fluffy Appams.
You'll also enjoy spicy Karimeen Pollichathu wrapped in charred banana leaves, comforting Kappa (tapioca) with fiery red Meen Curry, delicate Fish Molee, sweet steamed Kozhakkatta, hot Unniyappam, crispy Pazham Pori, and steaming tumblers of frothy filter coffee, while church bells and temple chimes sound at dawn.
Active gold jewelry showrooms, trading yards for ribbed smoked natural rubber sheets, spice warehouses, and passing Southern Railway express trains define the daily rhythm of this active cultural town.
Changanassery is famous for St. Mary's Cathedral, Thrikkodithanam Temple, Anchuvilakku Monument, Kuttanad Gateway, and authentic Syrian Christian cuisine.
It's a practical base if you want to admire 12th century cathedral architecture, explore 108 Divya Desam temples, cruise on traditional Kettuvallam houseboats through backwater paddy fields, and savor authentic spicy Kerala dishes.
The surrounding Central Travancore territory holds deep antiquity shaped by the Thekkumkur rajas, the Travancore royal kingdom, the early Portuguese and Syrian Christian missionaries, and generations of Kuttanad paddy farmers who cultivate rice below sea level. From the towering spires of Valiyapally to the sacred groves of Puzhavathu, you'll discover rewarding cultural landmarks across the district.
Local life centers around commerce, rubber trade, paddy farming, backwater fishing, religious festals, and warm Malayali hospitality. You can view the sunrise over the backwater canals at dawn, explore the ancient temples and cathedrals by midday, and watch the sunset from the Anchuvilakku boat jetty by evening.
Neighboring destinations like Kottayam, Alappuzha, and Kumarakom offer Thirunakkara Mahadeva Temple, Alappuzha Backwaters, Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, and Vembanad Lake Cruises. Adding Changanassery to your travel plans works well for heritage travelers, spiritual pilgrims, food lovers, and road trippers exploring Kerala.
You can view the glowing golden sunset reflecting off the quiet canal waters and watch the evening lamps illuminate the historic cathedral facades by dusk. The journey is worth every rupee. Changanassery provides an authentic, peaceful, and culturally deep travel experience.
Planning your trip around the pleasant winter sightseeing season from September to March, the grand annual Feast of St. Sebastian at Valiyapally, or the Thrikkodithanam Deepam festival will give you the best experience across Kerala. Here is the seasonal breakdown:
Best Time to Visit by Season
• Winter Season (September to March): The premier travel window. Pleasant, breezy, and sunny with daytime temperatures between 22°C and 30°C, ideal for houseboat cruising in Kuttanad, touring ancient churches, and attending temple festivals.
• Monsoon Season (June to August): Heavy southwest monsoon rainfall transforms Kuttanad backwaters and paddy fields into endless water expanses, hosting exciting snake boat races.
• Summer Season (March to May): Warm and humid with daytime temperatures reaching 35°C. Early morning backwater boating and evening church visits are recommended.
Major Annual Cultural & Spiritual Celebrations
• St. Sebastian's Feast at Metropolitan Cathedral (January): Spectacular 10 day church festival drawing thousands for solemn spiritual processions, brass band concerts, and fireworks.
• Thrikkodithanam Deepam Festival (November December): Ancient festival of lights where thousands of flaming torches and oil lamps illuminate the temple grounds.
• Pudurppally Chandanakuda Mahotsavam (December): Celebrated with traditional caparisoned elephant processions, Panchavadyam orchestras, and communal harmony feasts.
• Onam Harvest Festival & Boat Races (August September): Spectacular Chundan Vallam (snake boat) races on the nearby Pamba and Meenachil river waters.
What Changanassery is Famous For
• St. Mary's Cathedral: 1177 AD ancient Syro Malabar Marian pilgrimage center.
• Thrikkodithanam Temple: 108 Divya Desam Vaishnavite shrine.
• Central Travancore Flavors: Kuttanadan Tharavu Roast, Karimeen Pollichathu, Appam with Beef Fry, and Kozhakkatta.
Reaching Changanassery in Kerala is simple because Main Central Road (MC Road / SH 1), Changanassery Railway Station on Southern Railway mainline, and Cochin International Airport provide reliable multi modal transit connectivity. Here is your complete transit guide:
By Air
• Cochin International Airport, Nedumbassery (COK): Located 105 km north of Changanassery (approx 2.5 hours drive via smooth 4 lane MC Road / NH 544 with direct flights to Gulf countries, Europe, Southeast Asia, and all major Indian metros).
• Trivandrum International Airport (TRV): Located 125 km south via MC Road.
• Airport Transfers: Pre paid cabs, app taxis from Cochin Airport, and KSRTC fast passenger buses operate regular direct highway transfers to Changanassery.
By Train
• Changanassery Railway Station (Station Code: CGY): Located directly in town on Southern Railway's Ernakulam Kottayam-Kayamkulam mainline with 80+ daily express halts connecting Mumbai, Delhi, Bengaluru, and Chennai.
• Kottayam Railway Junction (Station Code: KTYM): Located 18 km north on the mainline.
• Thiruvalla Railway Station (Station Code: TRVL): Located 8 km south on the mainline.
• Connecting Express Trains: Vande Bharat Express, Kerala Express, Parasuram Express, Venad Express, and Malabar Express connect nearby stations smoothly across India.
By Road
• Main Central Road (MC Road / SH 1): High speed 4 lane arterial highway connecting Trivandrum, Kottayam, and Angamaly directly through Changanassery.
• State Highway 11 (AC Road): Connecting Changanassery with Alappuzha through scenic Kuttanad backwaters.
• Bus Services: Kerala State Road Transport Corporation (KSRTC) and private operators run frequent direct Super Fast, Minnal, and Fast Passenger buses between Kottayam, Alappuzha, Kochi, Trivandrum, and Changanassery every 2 minutes.
Local Commuting & Backwater Cruise Access
• Auto Rickshaws & Town Cabs: Readily available at Changanassery Railway Station, KSRTC Bus Stand, and Anchuvilakku Jetty for quick local commuting.
• Rental Private Cabs: Hiring a private taxi is the most convenient way to explore the regional circuit covering St. Mary's Cathedral, Thrikkodithanam Temple, Kuttanad Backwaters, and Kumarakom in a single day.
Exploring local gold jewelry bazaars, backwater spice shops, and tasting authentic Syrian Christian, Central Travancore, and Kuttanadan culinary specialties is an enjoyable part of visiting Kerala. Here are the top items to buy and try:
What to Buy (Gold, Spices & Kasavu Handlooms)
• Traditional Kerala Gold Jewelry: Intricate handcrafted bridal jewelry, Kasu Mala, Palakka Mala, and Nagapada Thali from reputed town jewelers.
• Farm Fresh Hill Spices: Organic black pepper, green cardamom, cloves, cinnamon sticks, and dried Kodampuli garcinia from plantation markets.
• Traditional Handloom Kasavu Mundus & Sarees: Elegant cream cotton mundus and sarees woven with rich golden zari borders.
• Fresh Banana & Jackfruit Chips: Crispy yellow plantain chips, spicy tapioca chips, and jackfruit crisps fried fresh in pure coconut oil.
• Authentic Kerala Plum Cakes & Halwa: Rich dark fruit plum cakes, wheat halwa, and sweet Kozhakkatta from heritage town bakeries.
Famous Local Food Specialties
• Authentic Kuttanadan Tharavu Roast with Appam: Country duck roasted in thick coconut milk, black pepper, and curry leaves, paired with bowl shaped lace hoppers.
• Spicy Karimeen Pollichathu: Pearl spot fish marinated in spicy shallot chili masala, wrapped in banana leaf and shallow fried in coconut oil.
• Syrian Christian Beef Fry / Roast with Parotta: Tender meat pan fried with coconut slivers, garlic, and cracked pepper, served with flaky layered flatbread.
• Steamed Sweet Kozhakkatta & Unniyappam: Steamed rice dumplings stuffed with grated coconut and jaggery, and fried jaggery banana fritters.
• Steaming Tumbler Frothy Filter Coffee: Strong, aromatic coffee brewed fresh with cow milk in traditional stainless steel tumbler sets.
Must-Visit Places in Changanassery
Changanassery and the surrounding Kottayam Kuttanad corridor offer ancient 12th century cathedrals, 108 Divya Desam Vishnu shrines, historic lamp monuments, and palm fringed backwater canals. Here are the top attractions to visit during your stay.
1. St. Mary's Metropolitan Cathedral (Valiyapally / 1177 AD)
One of Kerala's oldest and most prestigious Marian pilgrimage cathedrals founded in 1177 AD, featuring grand Portuguese Gothic altars and intricate wooden ceiling carvings.
Timings: 6:00 AM to 7:30 PM daily
Fee: Free access
Route: Located on Market Road in central town.
2. Thrikkodithanam Mahavishnu Temple (108 Divya Desam / 3 km)
Sacred 9th century temple built by Sahadeva, praised in Nalayira Divya Prabandham by Nammalvar, featuring Vattezhuthu stone inscriptions and the annual Deepam torch festival.
Timings: 5:00 AM to 11:30 AM & 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM daily
Fee: Free access
Route: Located 3 km east in Thrikkodithanam.
3. Anchuvilakku Historic 1905 Five Lamp Monument & Jetty
Iconic 5 lamp stone post erected by freedom fighter and Dewan Velu Thampi Dalawa near the boat jetty, symbolizing the town's historical market heritage.
Timings: 24 hours open (Illuminated in evenings)
Fee: Free access
Route: Located at Boat Jetty Junction.
4. Puzhavathu Kavil Bhagavathi Temple
Ancient royal shrine of the Thekkumkur rajas dedicated to Goddess Bhadrakali, famous for the annual Medam Aswathi festival and sacred temple groves.
Timings: 5:30 AM to 11:00 AM & 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM daily
Fee: Free access
Route: Located in Puzhavathu.
5. Gateway to Kuttanad Waterways & Houseboat Cruises (5 km)
Scenic backwater canal networks where tourists board traditional Kettuvallam houseboats cruising through emerald paddy fields below sea level.
Timings: Daylight hours (Day and overnight cruises)
Fee: Houseboat charter fees apply
Route: Located 5 km west on AC Road.
6. Changanassery Pudurppally Juma Masjid (Old Mosque)
Historic 400 year-old Islamic shrine and mosque celebrated for communal harmony and the annual Chandanakuda Mahotsavam festival.
Timings: 5:00 AM to 9:00 PM daily
Fee: Free access
Route: Located in central Changanassery.
7. Perunna Sree Subrahmanya Swamy Temple
Revered Murugan shrine associated with the historic 1936 Temple Entry Proclamation, featuring traditional Kerala timber architectural design.
Timings: 5:00 AM to 11:30 AM & 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM daily
Fee: Free access
Route: Located 2 km north in Perunna.
8. Manimala River Confluence & Riverside Walkway
Tranquil freshwater river offering country boat crossings, lush green banks, and refreshing evening breeze walkways.
Timings: Daylight hours
Fee: Free access
Route: Located along town riverfront.
9. Changanassery Gold & Textile Trading Bazaars
Major commercial shopping avenue renowned for traditional Kerala bridal gold jewelry, Kasavu handloom sarees, and designer silks.
Timings: 9:30 AM to 8:00 PM daily
Fee: Free access
Route: Located in Market Road.
10. Changanassery Natural Rubber & Spice Mandi
Active commodities marketplace trading ribbed smoked rubber sheets, black pepper, cardamom, and cloves from nearby plantations.
Timings: 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM daily
Fee: Free access
Route: Located in Rubber Trade Complex.
11. Changanassery Traditional Bakeries & Sweet Marts
Renowned local bakeries serving hot Unniyappam, steamed sweet Kozhakkatta, crispy Pazham Pori, and fresh plum cakes daily.
Timings: 7:00 AM to 9:30 PM daily
Fee: Free access
Route: Located along MC Road.
12. Traditional Syrian Christian Dining Halls
A delightful food street serving authentic Kuttanadan Tharavu Roast with appams, Karimeen Pollichathu, Beef Fry, and filter coffee.
Timings: 7:00 AM to 10:30 PM daily
Fee: Free access
Route: Located along MC Road corridor.
Changanassery Photo Gallery & Attractions
Explore high-resolution photographs of iconic temples, historical monuments, and scenic landmarks in Changanassery.
Plan Your Changanassery Trip Now
Get the best verified hotel deals and customized tour packages. Book directly on EarthTrip and save up to 45%!
